My Perception - Turkish tid-bits

Yalçin apartments & Nomadic museum.

14/12/2011

Today I had the opportunity to visit somewhere I've heard a lot about both from friends and the media - Yalçin Apart & Nomadic museum. I first heard about the museum via a newspaper article and then from friends who, once the subject came up, couldn't say enough nice things about it.
So here we were after having walked from Çiftlik on a very sunny winter's day down roads lined with orange groves and various other fruit and vegetables.
The museum is owned by the Yalçın family, Enver, Aysun , Bora & Oya.
.Enver was there to great us while Aysun ushered us to our tables for 'light refreshments' prior to visiting their museum. Did I say "light refreshments"? I love Turkish breakfast as much as the next person but the breakfast Aysun so lovingly prepares far surpasses any other I've had. Basically 15TL and all you can eat. Eggs, fruit, vegetables, a variety of cheese, bread, jam, ayran, juice & çay and I'm well on my way to having to run a marathon to work it off! So after our hearty meal we waddled our way into the museum. Lovely! Full of information (unfortunately in Turkish but I'm sure Yalçın would have explained anything had we asked) and actual artifacts and relics from cradles to guns, traditional costumes and sewing machines - all manner of history. Entrance is free as is photo taking so your able to wander around at leisure taking in not just the museum but the lovely surroundings. As the name implies Yalçin apartments & Nomadic museum is just that, a museum and apartment complex where you can rent and spend some quality time in the countryside with a lovely family and their hospitality - surrounded by nature and all that that ensues.
So there you have it! I hope everyone gets a chance to visit Yalçin Apart & Nomadic museum and experience real Turkish hospitality. We'll be back!

Afternoon strolling through Kayaköy valley - as you do!

23/11/2011

Today saw my first 'Wacky walkers' 'stroll' which is organised by Ian from Kismet bar in Fethiye.
I'd been meaning to do this twice since it restarted this year but something else always came up so today was the day - no excuses! Everyone had prearranged to meet at the main Mosque in Fethiye at 10:45; and so we all were - with bells on! Taking up one full dolmuş we all piled in and headed up to our starting point in Hisarönü for light refreshments pre endeavour. Approx 1 hr later, Çay & bira (I won't go into that) out of the way we set off along paths unknown - at least unknown to me! Our group consisted of different ages, nationalities and general interests but one thing was certain, we were all there for the same things - exercise, relaxation and to meet new and interesting people; and that we did! Chris directed the way as we were led up hill and down dale and through the wonderful area known as Kayaköy valley. If you love history and/or nature this for you. As a keen photographer I found it near impossible not to keep stopping for photos. For every one photo I took I could have easily taken ten more. Around every bend there is something new, be it shoots from wild flowers, (Note to self: must go back when they are in flower) old ruins; from which era is anyone's guess, small grave yards dotted along the road - some seem to have had escapees, and finally the wonderful 'ghost' town which is Kayaköy. Unfortunately we didn't get to explore this wonderful and sad piece of history this time but it is well and truly on my 'sooner rather than later' list. So there you have it. Approx 4 hrs of walking, talking and wonderment which by now shouldn't really surprise me in this wonderful country. A light lunch at Mavi Kelebek (Blue Butterfly) and then a dolmuş back home. Once again many thanks to Ian for organising this wonderful walk and I look forward to next weeks adventure. For anyone else interested in joining the 'Wacky Walkers', contact Ian at Kismet bar or via his facebook page. The group is open to all ages & paces - new members very welcome, sturdy foot ware recommended.

Sokak 111

19/10/2011

Today was the day to do something we'd been promising to do since we arrived in Fethiye.
From the moment we looked up and saw the magnificent Lycian rock tombs that keep watch over Fethiye and it's citizens barely a day went by without reminding ourselves that this was a must see - sooner rather than later. So with the sun shining and the temperature just right for climbing we set off. Up the meandering streets we strolled taking in the days rays and being reminded of exactly why we had moved to this very special part of the world. The way, as they say , 'is paved in gold' and in Fethiye the 'gold' truly is the history. I never realised just how much history there is hidden in this ancient town. Yes, we have the Telmessos Ancient Theatre, The castle of the Knights of St John and of course the famous rock tombs as can be seen from down below. But if your wandering around town and you come across Sokak 111 (111 street), follow it, because it takes you winding up behind some pretty hidden and impressive history not mentioned in any tourist guide book I've read. As you can see by my pictures, hidden amongst and among the old houses are parks and plots littered with ruins. Some are being used as chicken coups, others rubbish dumps and still others are being preserved as modern day roundabouts - open you eyes and see, not just look. The pile of rubble you stumble across is more likely to be the foundations of something that was, in it's time, much bigger.

Kapadokya - How wonderful!

10/10/2011

Last week my husband and I went on a five day break to Kapadokya. (Cappadocia)
This was something we'd been wanting to do for a while so as the weather had started to cool down and (we hoped) the tourists were fewer, we hired a car and set off.
What a wonderful part of the world! Kapadokya is truly a jewel in Turkey's crown. Even the trip there was awe inspiring with the landscape constantly changing from mountains and valleys to open plains as far as the eye can see. Kapadokya is not so far away from Fethiye. It takes roughly 10-11 hours of sedate driving if you want to get there in one day - which we did! However on the way we passed another little gem, namely, Yeşilada (Green Island) in Eğirdir; which we noted and planned a one night stay on the way back just to have a sticky beak. See blog.
We stayed at the Miras hotel due to it's location, the fact it is a cave hotel and for the sheer fantasy of it. It certainly lived up to our expectations and added to the overall effect Kapadokya had on us. We had our list of things to do, not the least being horse riding which I hadn't done since I was in my 20's and my husband (who I might add is an experienced rider) had not done for about 10 years. That organised for our second day we embarked on the rest of our list.
No. 1 - The Göreme open air museum which is a UNESCO listed site. As lovely as this open air piece of history is, it is also teeming with tourists - by the bus load. We stayed there for a quick peak of the attractions and then hotfooted it over the road to an equally impressive (and free) site, full of cave dwellings, religious paintings and carvings etc... but with one more important ingredient - NO TOURISTS! Just the way we like it! We spent much more time across the road marvelling at the history and as you'll see by my photos, just as magnificent as the official museum.
No. 2 on our list was castle hopping as is our want when we travel, so our next two ports of call were Uchisar Castle & Burgut Castle. Again wonderful and several days on and my legs are still feeling the effects of all that climbing.
Our horse riding adventure was a real piece of fun and such a wonderful way to take in the scenery. We chose the 2 hr ride organised by the hotel which took us into Göreme valley and up on high to survey the valley below. A wonderful two hours and a great initiation to get back into the saddle.
No. 3 visit at least one underground city on this trip. We chose Özkonak as it is the smallest and least likely to be inhabited by hoarding tourists. We were right! We also got to meet the discoverer of this wonderful piece of history. Latif Acar who is the local Iman who discovered the city whilst tending his crops. We bought a book of the city and he kindly signed it for us.
No. 4 on our list was just to meander around Göreme itself. With so many restaurants, cafes and touristy shops, it was nice to 'go tourist' for a change. What I also hadn't realised was how many Aussies frequent Kapadokya. In my 6 years out of Australia I have never come across such an Aussie enclave. Everywhere we went there were groups of Aussies sitting around chatting. We even discovered a lovely cafe/bar called Fatboys where the owners are a Turkish/Aussie couple and the food is a mix of typical Turkish cuisine filled in with Aussie temptations like Vegemite on toast or meat pie and sauce etc.... Amusing to find in this part of the world but suffice to say we went back more than once. With so many things to see and do in Kapadokya we will certainly return. Hopefully not in the too distant future!
See more photos in my perception in pictures.

A jewel in my neighbourhood.

27/8/2011

Ever since we have moved to Fethiye I've wondered what the multi coloured lights are that glint at me from across the bay. Last night I found out.
Our good friends Claudia and Yalcin invited us to a barbecue at Aksazlar. Not a place I've ever heard of but with a couple of simple instructions we found this wonderful gem directly opposite where we live on the other side of the bay, and the source of the aforementioned mystery lights.
Aksazlar is truly a gem set amongst what I consider to be a pretty perfect place already. Only 10 mins by car - slightly longer by dolmuş. Just follow the road around the bay through the boat yards where you will see a signpost with several names of beaches on it; the first being Aksazlar. We're told it can get busy but yesterday and last night it was fairly quiet. The water is calm, warm and inviting, and for young children it stays shallow for quite a way out. The visibility for those of us who like to snorkel is not so great, but I consider that a blessing once I discovered after dusk what other creature we were sharing it with. Not a fond fan of crabs, there were truly some healthy ones gliding around in the water once the sun started to go down. Good note for next time!
There is a fairly decent sized restaurant there, and although we had a barbecue (b.y.o) I'm told the meals there are very nice. Something to look forward to on another day.
As you can see by my pictures there are all manner of ways to relax. We hired (10TL) a sitting platform which had a light in it for use after dark. There are sunbeds on the beach itself and the restaurant has a choice of tables & chairs for finer dining or bean bags on the lawn under the stars. Later on in the evening the singer turned up with his guitar and with a velvety voice quietly serenaded us all in the background. All in all a pretty perfect afternoon and evening. So whereas I would hate to see this lovely place become overcrowded with tourists (selfish I know ;) I felt it a place that deservedly required a mention in my blog - although part of me hopes that no-one reads it!
For those of you who wish to visit Aksazlar, there are dolmuşes every 15 mins or so and they run right up to midnight. I'm also told Aksazlar is open right through winter.
Enjoy!

Importing to Turkey - A tale. A very long tale!

20/8/2011

It all started on the 15th of June 2011.
Having read the horror stories concerning foreigners trying to import their possessions into Turkey once they'd made the leap to expat life and deciding I was not going to be one of those poor souls, I had done some research and came upon a company by the name of 9ekim group who, by all accounts had helped a few people import their personal possessions with minimal fuss and without the 'fees' & bribes that Turkish customs is notorious for. And so I were introduced to Andrey, my friendly Turkish broker who assured me that they are indeed experienced licensed customs brokers, "expert in customs clearance". Excellent!
Over the next few days emails are swapped back and forth; Andrey asking questions regarding volume & type of goods, origin and destination with me providing the answers. All is going well. With an initial quote of €1950.00 and a promise from Andrey that his "primary objective is quality, ease and speed of delivery" I feel I am in good hands.
Next I ask for a list of requirements to get the ball rolling - the first is the packing list. I had some replica antiques such as suit of armour, guns (not working) etc... but decide not to import them as the procedure for replica or real antiques is both time consuming and costly - something I was at a pains to avoid. It is also pointed out to me along the way that as I am importing personal belongings there will be a $1000 US deposit to be paid by on top of the initial fee which, I am told, will be refunded after 3 years should I decide to claim my goods as permanent. Next, with the pick-up date finalized all that remained was to send ahead copies of my passport, residence permit & TAPU with the originals to be sent to the agent as soon as I arrive in Turkey. In the meantime Andrey has advised me of "some good news" in that due to new regulations that came in force in July, I no longer have to pay the $1000 US temporary import deposit. Things are looking good! - Mmmmmmmm
With this false sense of security fully in place it all started to go downhill from there. The day before we (my husband and I) left Romania I got an email: Oh! buy the way just one more thing. "On your way through the border can you please go to the customs police and obtain a Giriş Çıkış Belgesi? (entry & exit history authorized by the police) Right then! Never heard of it but will get it nonetheless - Uh, no! Unfortunately not, as neither had the border police who looked totally 'doe eyed' by the request. So on 9th of August, the day after we arrived in Fethiye, with the help of a good friend I fronted at the customs police only to be asked "Why?" "Nobody needs this piece of paper & no one has ever asked for one." Once again, Mmmmmmm. Mine is not to reason why just to get the bloody thing! Two days and several trips back to the police and Voilà! One piece of irrelevant paperwork in hand and sent straight off to our 'professional' broker to do with what he may. Finally I can breath and relax. Date: 10th August - Not long now!

Friday 12th August (The day my goods were supposed to be delivered) I received an email from Andrey stating that all the customs procedures had been finalized barring one final signature and stamp from an official they could not get due to the closing of the business day, but rest assured we will have it (the signature) tomorrow. The customs procedures will be finalized on Monday 15th and the goods will leave Istanbul that night and be received by me on Tuesday 16th. Yes! Home and hosed!

Monday 15th August - I received yet another email from Andrey to explain that the customs official with the power to issue the final stamp - or not, had decided, based on the new procedures issued in July (procedures that my 'professional removalist friend Andrey is paid to be aware of) that there was some paperwork "missing". My reply was "How can it be missing when you never asked for it in the first place?" So here below you will find yet another list of documents needed, apparently, to assure the said customs official that I am indeed who I am quite forgetting the fact that I have proved this time and time again when I purchased the apartment we now live in with my residency permit, tax number etc.. - Not documents you can get over the counter at Migros!

"1)     Giris-Cikis belgesi (Entry records) – is taken by you only from 01.01.2011, but customs officer needs it for whole period (at least 3 years, since 01.01.2008)

2)     Personal records documents (yours and your husbands) – This document must contain your names, birth places, birth dates, address abroad, father’s name, mother’s name, id number. This document must be approved by a British Embassy (in Fethiye there is one) (if possible made in Turkish language)

3)     24 months living abroad document – in this document there must be written that you at least 24 month was living abroad (in Romania or UK), that’s all. This document must be approved by a British Embassy (in Fethiye there is one) (if possible made in Turkish language)."

My response was thus:

"Good evening Andrey,

As per our conversation please note the following:

1. - My previous UK passports are not 3 years old.The one before I was married was issued in December 2009 and only shows to the beginning of this year when we had it changed to my married name. The one previous to that was stolen .....and had only two entries into Turkey in it as we only started coming to Turkey in April 2009.

2. - My husband is not English he is Danish, so none of his documents will be approved by the British embassy.
I have no documents with my parents names or details on them because they are not required in the UK once you turn 18. One is considered an adult and therefore can sign anything on your own without parental consent. As I am now 46 I find it ridiculous!
- Regardless, any personal documents we don't have with us already will be in the shipment of goods customs holds in Istanbul.

3. - The residence document I have for Romania is only from March this year because once again it was changed into my married name and therefore only shows the date from then.

As the Turkish customs now seems to be making impossible demands (these documents were not 'missing' as they had never been requested from us in the first place) and clearly does not wish for me to retrieve my belongings thereby costing me more time and money I respectfully request my belongings to be returned back to the Romanian address from whence they came and I would assume a refund would be in order for services not met. Please let me know when the goods will arrive back in Romania so Jens can go back and meet with them.

If Turkish Customs has a complaint department I would gladly have the contact details to pursue this matter further. In the meantime you can let them know I will be lodging a formal complaint with the British embassy. Any names you have would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,

Donna Schwarz-Nielsen"

17th of August - 5 days longer than the originally quoted time frame I receive a phone call & an email for a bill of € 700.00 plus tax for extra storage time due to the 'extra missing' paperwork. Paperwork that I was not aware of until the original delivery date. All of this from a 'professional, experienced import broker' who has now informed me that he cannot give me an original receipt from customs because the payment for the € 700.00 was in cash and so I received a discount. Once again, Mmmmmmm.
Anyhow the 'ransom' money has been paid and all I await is my belonging. Tick, tick, tick!

Friday 19th of August - Finally my belongings have arrived. Slightly beaten up with the odd broken mirror & knick-knack (quite frankly half the boxes have either been ripped open or tapped danced on) but never the less they have arrived!

- So what's the moral of this story?

   Immigrate naked!

Let the adventure begin!

17/8/2011

Many thanks to the Belediyesi for providing us with a grand home coming - even to the point of rolling our the red carpet, which was appreciated but not necessary ;)
Gone is the noise and manic car parking in our street. The Belediyesi have now provided us with a lovely pedestrian area resplendent with colourfully lit flora, seating, lights & for our local backgammon playing men folk - ashtrays. For which we thank you! To finish off a manic week and start our new life here in Fethiye, no expense was spared. The highlight for me was last nights Whirling Dervish performance. Always graceful! I know they are religious followers of the Q'ran for which their dance (sema ritual ) holds special meaning, but in truth I love it for it's grace, serenity & music. Also included in last nights celebration of Ramazan was Fethiye's very own brass band, colourfully dressed youth in traditional costumes and all the normal things you'd expect to find in a night of celebration - holy or not - from the fairy floss man to the traditional hot sweet corn vendor. So once again I'd like to thank the local municipality for it's effort and fine homecoming and encourage them to continue as we renew old friendships & explore our surroundings.

Let the adventure begin!

Apologies for the video quality. It was my first time trying it out with semi success. It gets a bit fuzzy in the middle but the quality does come back.

New beginnings.

16/8/2011

And so, our first week of permanent living in Fethiye has come to an end; and quite a week it was.
The last seven days have flown by in a flurry of shopping, paperwork and memories renewed as we reflect on the last 12 months which have flown by since originally buying our apartment on the spur of the moment, to now. As we wander around our piece of paradise, renewing acquaintances and seeing everything afresh, we appreciate how truly lucky we are to have landed in this particular place at this time in our lives. Let the adventures begin!